Your lawn isn't the only thing sweating through this Southern summer. While you've probably been keeping an eye on your grass, the trees and shrubs in your yard have been quietly battling the same brutal combination of heat, humidity, and dry spells — and by mid-August, a lot of them are running on empty.
The tricky part? Trees and shrubs don't wilt as obviously as a thirsty lawn. Stress can creep in for weeks before you notice anything's wrong. So let's talk about what to look for, why this particular stretch of summer is so hard on woody plants, and what you can actually do about it.
Heat and drought stress in trees and shrubs shows up in ways that are easy to write off as "just how they look in summer." Here's what's actually a red flag:
Here's the thing about late summer in Nashville, Charlotte, Atlanta, Greenville-Spartanburg, or the DFW area — the heat has had weeks to bake the soil, and afternoon thunderstorms (when they show up at all) often dump water fast enough that it runs off instead of soaking in. That means the top several inches of soil, where a lot of feeder roots live, can be bone dry even after a "rainy" week.
Shrubs and younger trees planted near foundations, driveways, or in beds surrounded by concrete have it even worse. Those spots trap and radiate heat like an oven, and the soil volume around the roots is often smaller than you'd think — closer to a raised planter than open ground.
Established trees have deeper root systems and more reserves to draw on, but they're not immune. Years of cumulative stress from hot, dry Augusts is a major reason mature trees decline gradually over time, even when nothing "happens" to them in any single season.
A quick sprinkle every day encourages roots to stay shallow, right where the soil dries out fastest. Instead, aim for a slow, deep soak once or twice a week — enough to moisten the soil 8-12 inches down around trees, and 6-8 inches for shrubs. A soaker hose left running for 30-45 minutes works better than a hose blast for five minutes.
A 2-3 inch layer of mulch around the base of trees and shrubs (kept a few inches away from the trunk itself) can dramatically cut down on soil moisture loss and keep root zones cooler. If your mulch has thinned out since spring, now's a good time to top it off.
Pruning stimulates new growth, and new growth needs water the plant may not have to spare right now. Save the bigger cuts for cooler weather unless you're removing dead or damaged branches.
Spider mites and bagworms tend to show up in force on already-stressed plants, especially junipers, arborvitae, and boxwoods. A stressed plant is a weaker plant, and pests know it.
Here's where a lot of homeowners get it backwards: fertilizing a severely wilted, drought-stressed plant with a standard surface feeding can actually make things worse by pushing growth the roots can't support.
It's not quite time yet, but deep root fertilization season is just around the corner. Fall is a perfect timeframe to get your trees back up and running, after temperatures have cooled and the stress calms down.
Rather than feeding the surface, deep root fertilization delivers nutrients directly into the root zone — right where trees and shrubs need them to rebuild energy reserves after a stressful summer and prepare for healthy root development as temperatures ease into fall and winter. It's one of the best things you can do to help your landscape recover and come back stronger, rather than just limping through winter.
If your trees or shrubs have been looking a little rough this August, it's worth having a second set of eyes on them before small stress turns into a bigger problem. Top Turf's Tree & Shrub Care service — including deep root fertilization — is designed to help your landscape year-round (that includes summer stress!) to keep stronger roots and have healthier growth. Reach out and we'll take a look at what's going on in your yard! Please contact your local Top Turf branch for inquires.